Wednesday, November 1, 2017

Day 12: Fifteen

Today was our day to stick close to the apartment and shop. I had wanted to check out Christianborg Slot this afternoon, but it looked like rain would hit about the time I wanted to climb the tower, so instead I added a closer attraction to our day out itinerary.

Also, we have coffee in the room. Glorious, wonderful coffee. We spent the early morning poking about in the room with coffee.

We started with breakfast at the Atelier September cafe, which is undergoing a bit of renovation work. My soft boiled egg with toast and cheese was good, but we arrived too late for the poppy seed pastry Bill wanted.

Our next stop was a bookstore Bill wanted to visit. This is very strange as Bill has declared paper books dead to him and e-books the new standard. A hardcover copy of a technical journal with a paper signed by Claude Shannon is an acceptable, nay, desirable dead tree. While the book turned out to not be signed, the bookstore itself was pretty great. You had to buzz in and navigate a narrow isle of familiar but poorly aging titles and a century old cash register. Most of the stock is upstairs, accessible by providing the shop keeper a catalog number. Kind of what you expect when you walk into a bookstore that is almost 200 years old.

We also hit Petitgas, the world's second oldest hat store, which celebrated 160 years in operation in the spring, Skagen, which is slightly more expensive here than in the US, Peter Beier, a chocolatier, and Conditoriet La Glace, the oldest bakery in Copenhagen. The last was added to our list by the coffee store employees yesterday. We picked up slices of cake for breakfast tomorrow.

At that point, even though it would have been smart to eat, we weren't really hungry, so the next stop was the Round Tower ahead of the impending rain. This is an observatory connected to a church. The trip most of the way to the top is via a spiral ramp rather than stairs. Followed by a narrow spiral stair about 25% the height of the climb to our hotel room.





We then thought maybe lunch would be a good idea, and headed towards a brew house Bill had found via google maps our first night here. On the way we stopped at a glass shop with some cool stuff in it.

The brewery had an interesting looking menu for both food and beer. We didn't want to go too heavy as we had dinner reservations, ordering a tasting platter. There was a bit of a miscommunication, though, and we ended up with 2. Mistakes were made.

They also had a brett on tap that was interesting. A good sour on the front, and a long malt rich, evolving finish.

After several more stops at various clothing stores (and even the shoe store we're staying above), we ducked out of the rain at the apartment and checked with the tour book to see if it had any recommendations. Of the stores listed, there were three nearby that all looked interesting: Stilleben, Illums Bolighus, and Hay House. Stilleben had some interesting prints, but nothing that really captured our attention. Illums Bolinghus was a vast cornucopia of excellent kitchen, dinning, and furniture finds which we somehow escaped with only pot holders. Hay House contained such a dangerously clean lined set of goods we were lucky to only walk out with tea towels.

Shopping bender accomplished, we settled in at the apartment and tried out the new board game I purchased yesterday. I think we almost had the turn order down before it was time to head to dinner.

Kadeau was listed in our tour guide as an option if one couldn't get reservations at Noma. As Noma is currently closed, with plans to reopen in another month or so, we decided to check Kadeau out instead. They do a 15 course tasting menu, seating only a few dozen guests a night. The front door is almost not marked and a doorbell is how you get in. Before dinner, they bring you to a casual seating area with a view of the courtyard and a wonderful, fresh herb and citrus cocktail.

What followed, in any other year of my life, would have easily been the best meal I'd had this year. However, this year also included dinner at Alinea. In terms of service Kadeau's friendly, engaging servers and earnest chefs made for a far more welcoming, relaxed experience than the honed to perfection service at Alinea. We were as well cared for and cherished as the food here. And the food was incredible. Nothing quite as good as the coconut soup at Alinea, but playful and experimental in a way that was very appealing. I'm delighted we were able to get reservations.

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