Monday, May 18, 2026

Day 0 - What Day Is It?

We got up bright and early on Sunday to head to the Dupont Circle farmer's market for pastries, and by the end of dinner, it was past 9PM on Monday. 

View through a plane window at the ocean with a few chunks of land partially obscured by fog.
Our First View of the Faroe Islands

We're in the Faroe Islands, finally taking the trip we were supposed to do in 2020, but something came up. 

We got here the shorter way, via Iceland, but it was still a long day. I did get a bit of a nap on the first flight, which is likely the only reason I was even up for dinner. Here are some photos from the first bit of driving:

A lake nestled between rolling hills of spars grass, with sunshine and clouds.

View of driving through a tunnel, the windshield clearly wet from rain prior to the tunnel

A stretch of road with a sheep wandering in one lane - which we had been warned about by the rental car agency.

A view across the ocean to a neighboring island.

 For this first bit, we're staying in Torshavn, the capitol city, with an apartment overlooking the harbor. Once we figured out check in, found the correct parking, pulled in our luggage, and stopped in a local cafe for a small snack, it was close to the end of the day for most of the retail. Bill scanned the recommendations listed in the apartment's extensive directory and found a restaurant for dinner. We then walked around a bit to get oriented and hit a grocery store. And then I asked how far a walk it was to the lighthouse we could see. 

 The lighthouse turned out to be reasonably close and walkable. It's part of an old fort that has been around for at least 400 years, with the newest armaments dating back to WWII. In addition to being fun to walk around, it also provided a great view back into the Torshavn harbor. 

 Next up: Dinner at Áarstova. I got salmon tartar with crisp toasted nuts, tons of herbs, and sesame oil: Roasted lamb shoulder with a crisp skin and a wonderful sauce: A shared cheese course: And a lovely lemon mouse.  Bill's rhubarb dessert was one of the best rhubarb dishes I have ever had. I paired my dessert with an 8 year old Kilchoman - when we visited, the distillery hadn't been open long enough to have anything legally considered Scotch. After dinner, the waiter took us on a tour of the house, including the room they serve visiting VIPs in, and the wine attic (killer staircase). He also showed us that the street just outside had a river underneath when the house was built. 

 All in all, a great start to the trip. Can recommend: lounge access at Dulles - far more civilized than any other way to wait for a flight. Cannot recommend: wandering between parking lots while dragging luggage to discover you walked up a completely unnecessary hill.

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