Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Day 7: The Persistence of Meeples, Figueres and Carcassone.

We are in a first class compartment on a train bound for the medieval walled city of Carcassonne. Our morning started outside of the Theatre-Museum Dali. The courtyard is full of interesting statues.

Dali's touch on every part of the building.

He had the former theater in Figueres remodeled to serve as a museum.

Surreal in every detail.

Even the streets nearby are not untouched.

The courtyard is full of statues.

This thing just kept getting creepier as I got closer. The eyes are dolls. I'm kind of glad the television isn't on.

We're still early in the season, so when the doors open, there is only one large tour group and a couple dozen other visitors. We immediately veer away from the tour route to explore on our own. This is the second attraction we’ve been to which has said “no cameras” when it meant “no flash photography.” So, unexpectedly, we got to take lots of pictures. Here are a few.

One of several line drawings hanging in the first corridor.

Portrait of Picasso.

My favorite of a series of gold serpents displayed in a room leading into the crypt where Dali is buried.

My favorite of a series of paintings about nails.

The Monument to Francesc Pujols and the Rainy Cadillac.

I feel this one is fairly self explanatory.

Inside the rainy Cadillac.


Bill, before we head inside.

Works of all sizes on display.

Interior of the dome.

To get this perspective, you have to climb a narrow set of stairs and look through a magnifying glass.

These are flat.

Rhinoctopus!
 With a train to catch, we weren't at quite as leisurely a pace as we’d like, but still considerably less rushed than the Picasso Museum. Then it was off to collect our bags from the hotel and head back to the train station.

Also, while I don’t normally include prices on anything in our travels, I do want to point out that the Hotel Duran room was 64 €. Total. Seriously, comfortable and large rooms, great location, helpful staff, I can’t believe the random hotel I picked off google maps turned out so well.

And now to the train!

Dinning car.

The view from first class.

Gotta have something to do inside tunnels.

This must be France.
I do hope our DM and the rest of the party appreciate the extensive research we've undertaken for our current Zeitgeist adventure.

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And now I am on a different train, headed towards our next destination.

This stop was entirely thanks to Carrie Vaughn who suggested it when we spoke at her signing in Cincinnati. I’m not sure what other people ask authors, but apparently I ask for help with vacation planning.  

The B&B in Carcassonne sent one of our two most exciting confirmation emails for this trip:
A taxi /bus will drop you at the main gates - from there, cross the drawbridge and continue up the main street until you come to a small square.

But first we had to reach the walled city. No taxi and no comprehensible time table at the train station’s bus stop. Some other Americans arrived on the same train and decided to address this by being loud and stressed out. I suggested that we start walking towards our destination (estimated half hour walk from the email), away from that other group, and see if something else didn't suggest itself along the way. Admittedly, I was kind of hungry and hoping we’d stumble into some food. Which we did.


Coffee and sandwiches beat getting stressed out about taxis any time.


A short walk later, we found a bus station here,
No, seriously, this is a bus stop.

about 6 minutes ahead of the correct bus to reach le Cite, and a short walk to check in. Note: roller bags not advised.


Carcassonne from outside of the walls.

I think there's only one problem with staying in the walled city. Rollerbags.


We then headed to the castle, picking the option with audio tour.

Entrance to the castle.

Bill listening to a dead architect talk about restoration work in the courtyard.

The modern city as seen from the castle.

Bill taking pictures.

More castle views.

A smaller courtyard.

The basilica as seen from the castle.


I do seem to enjoy taking pictures through arches.

The courtyard from above.

Bill continuing to take pictures.

Statue of the Virgin.

Cannon balls.

Why not have an indoor fountain.

Most obvious souvenir in the gift shop.

I think Bill may have listened to every single option at every single stop along the way. It was pretty cool that so many of the tour recitations included optional additions.

After touring the castle, you have the option of walking part way around the inner wall, which I did on my own.

Inner wall walkway.

View of the castle from the inner wall.
 
Oh, good. Stairs.

View of the outer wall and modern city.

Wall interior.

Outer wall near the main entrance to Carcassonne.


And then headed to the gothic basilica to take about ten thousand pictures of stained glass panels.

Basilica, where I am supposed to meet Bill after walking the wall.

Stained glass window.

Basilica ceiling.

Another stained glass window.

Close up.

Close up of yet another stained glass window.

Stained glass panels around the altar.

Close up on one of the designs.
 
Just one more - actually, I have several more, but this should be sufficient for the blog.
Met back up with Bill and wandered the streets, checking out the shops until they started to close. At some point, I picked up a violet flavored lollipop. I have decided I approve of violet as a flavor.

Wandering around the walled city in the evening.

Violet lolly.

Walking between the inner and outer walls.

Eventually, we stopped for dinner at one of the many restaurants advertising cassoulle. Sadly, Tuesday is the day the nicest restaurant in town is closed (as was the second nicest). So we were forced to suffer through three courses at the third or fourth best place in town. Yet another fantastic salad, this time with salmon. I’ve been delighted with every salmon dish I’ve had on this trip. My duck was a little well done for my tastes, but I think that had more to do with not speaking the language than anything about the restaurant. I’m also half convinced that there are no bad wines on the continent as so far here and Spain, whatever random thing I point at on the wine list has been delicious.

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