Day 15: Last Day, Nurnberg

Our first stop for the day was the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände in the uncompleted Congress Hall at the former Nazi Party Rally Grounds. This exhibit, more focused on reciting facts than displaying artifacts, was true to its name: Fascination and Terror. Rooms alternately focus on the rise of the Nazi party and their architecture and art as supporting propaganda. The timeline runs through the war, and to the outcomes of the Nurnberg Trials. I don’t know that there is anything I can say about this exhibit that will get across just how heavy it is.

Documentation Center Museum.

On display in the museum.

Afterwards we walked part of the grounds. The space has been converted into a public park, and sunshine and birdsong were something I think we both needed. Some of the other structures have survived, including the Zeppelin Field, now used as seating for outdoor concerts.

Decaying grandstand at the zeppelin field.

View across the lake at the unfinished Congress Building now housing the museum.

The city can’t afford repair and renovation work, so this is slowly decaying into ruin. I’m not convinced that is a bad thing. Of course, the inversion of the original purpose, where now the bandstand is audience seating also has a certain appeal.

Back to old town.

A strange statue we passed.

There's something associated with luck and this "Beautiful Fountain," but that was lost in translation. The fence around it is covered in locks, though. 

Bill enjoying the Hauptmarkt without rain today.

Our next stop is lunch at a restaurant suggested by the Lonely Planet tour book. This is, and I cannot stress this enough, the single worst travel guide I have ever owned. Tram stops are mislabeled very little information on most locations is provided, and the section on driving is appalling. So I was pleasantly surprised by how much I enjoyed this restaurant.

Bill in his natural habitat.

A copper door leading into the restaurant.

Pear brandy.

Bill took the guide’s advice and got the local variant of sausage. I took the menu’s advice and got the ox cheek they claimed as a house specialty. Damn that was good. Also, I can’t remember if I’ve mentioned this yet – every time I order coffee or tea, it comes with a cookie. This is something I really like about Germany.

Then we head north to the castle, with plenty of time remaining today.

These guys seemed a bit overdressed for castle gawking.

Chapel inside the castle.

Double eagles pretty much everywhere.

An unwrapped view of the illustration on the previous glass.

Ceiling in the living quarters.

Helmets pulled from a lake bottom.

One of several painted glass windows.

Horse armor.

Oh, good. Stairs.

View of Old Town from the top of the tower.

A well in an old building. Almost 5 seconds pass between dropping something from this height, and hearing it hit water.

Part of the tour is a demonstration where they lower the candles down into the well.

And synchronize their decent with video feeds in this display.

On the way back, we approach the plaza where we got hailed on from a different angle, and it starts to hail again when we’re about the same distance away. So we get coffee at a little shop west of the main tourist drag.

It's hailing again. Time for coffee.

There are a lot of stores with puns in their names. My favorite so far is delikatEßen.

We stick with this street and stumble into my new favorite shop, Ultra Comix.

Ultra Comix!

This is 3 stories of board and tabletop gaming, costuming, comics, geeky toys, and books. Fantasy and scifi separately shelved, with a small section of steampunk also separated out. I talked to the guy working the counter in the miniatures section without ever getting anything like “do you know what class your boyfriend’s character is” or anything other than enthusiastic help. Alas, longsword wielding Eladrin swordmage in gaslamp attire continues to be and impossible to find mini.

We poke our heads into a few other shops, but the next major stop is the same beer hall we enjoyed last night. This time, Bill orders a style of beer we haven’t tried before, and I am instantly in love with it. I’m also sort of still full from lunch, so while he orders more sausages, I run out and find him a bottle of what I hope is a wine similar to what he had for lunch. We shall see.

Bill in his natural habitat. Before I steal that pint of Radler from him.

Apple brandy.

After a few beers, some brandy, and sausages, we head back out for another short walk around the area before retiring to the hotel for the evening.

This is our last day, and my last entry.

I don't know where we're headed next!