Monday, May 25, 2026

Candle Lit Breakfast (Day 8)

We start our day with a walk to a local bakery called Amarant that opens early. The bakery had a nice selection of bake goods and it was obvious that locals were swinging by to grab something on their way to work. What we weren't expecting is that every table in their dining room would have one or more lit candles on it and they would have a nice view. So we started our day with a candle lit breakfast and a view!? There are certainly worst ways to start your day. 


After we walked back to the apartment I worked out how to use the Mochamaster coffee maker for additional coffee while we plan out our day. Today we're driving around Bordoy (the island Klaksvik is on) and it's two neighbors Kunoy and Vidoy. Apart from Kalaksvik, these islands are sparsly populated and the villages are going to be pretty small. 

Today is mostly about sight seeing. We start by driving to Vidoy and taking the road that loops around the island. We stop at the northern-most town, Vidareidi, to look around. Yesterday the information person told us not to hike in this area unless we had a guide because it was too dangerous. Basically, the trails are steep and possibly "not obvious", and they prefer if tourist don't fall off cliffs. Fine by me. I'm not interested in falling off of anything. 



After Vidoy, we return to Bordoy and drive up the scenic west side of the island to the mostly abandoned town of Mula. No one lives in Mula any more, but there are some buildings in the old village that are still used for sheep farming. There are signs to remind visitors that the buildings are private property and to be respectful during our visit. Yesterday we learned that Mula is known for the powerful sorcerer that lived there a couple of hundred of years ago. Just past the remains of the village there is a short 15 minute hike to a northern view point. This is more our speed and we manage to make our way out there with only getting our feet slightly wet in the muck and not rolling off the side of the island. While the grade is not particularly steep it is worth noting that the island is pretty much always at a downward slop up until you reach the edge of the sea cliff. The sea is always encouraging you to join it. 



Once we hike back to our car we drive across Bordoy and take is single-tracked s-curved causeway over to Kunoy. The visit to Kunoy goes pretty quick. There is a tiny village on the east side of the island, a tiny village on the west side of the island, and a single-tracked tunnel in between them. Besides enjoying the scenery of the fjords there isn't really anything to do in the villages.  The excitement is finding a place to turn the car around. 

Lastly, after we drive back to Bordoy we check out one last tiny village, Nordoyri. This is the village just south of Kalksvik and we could actually see it from the bakery this morning. We could probably walk there if we really wanted to, because it's just under 2 miles away. We drive, we take some photos, and we return to Klaksvik for the afternoon. 

After returning to town we visit Kafe Frida for a late lunch/afternoon snack. We both order the fish soup, Dawn gets a slice of carrot cake, and I order an americano. The drinks and cake come out right away. The wait for the soup stretches on-and-on and we begin to suspect that they might have forgotten our order. When Dawn approaches the counter to check on our soup it does appear that our soup order never made it back to the kitchen. They are very apologetic, give us free drinks, and expedite our soup.


Fortunately, the soup is worth waiting for because we both tremendously enjoy it. I overhear the chef telling another customer that they steam the fish fillets separately, add them to the bowl and then add a vegetable soup to that. I had never considered portioning seafood into a soup this way, but I can see a couple of advantages in terms of making sure everyone gets equal portions, and not having the fish break apart during cooking. It's something worth exploring in the future. A extra benefit of hanging out in the cafe for longer than intended is learning about an afternoon tea offered in a historical Faroese farming house nearby. Looks like we have something else to look forward to! 

In the late afternoon/early evening we visit all of the yarn/knit shops in Klaksvik. Dawn is able to source of few more interesting Faroese skeins of yarn. After retiring to the apartment for a bit we take our last walk around town to pick up a takeaway pizza. This town has multiple takeaway pizza places. It is easily the most common restaurant here. I select one and order a "blue wave" pizza, which includes meats, pineapple, garlic and most of a salad (lettuce, cucumber, tomatoes) plus dressing. When I order it the lady asks me what kind of dressing I want. I select "burger dressing" because I don't know what that is. I think it is some kind of mayo-thousand island concoction, but somehow the pizza works. We both eat more pizza that we planned to.



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